"The needle is brought up from the under portion of the garment through to the upper portion which is to be joined, leaving about one-inch end of the thread to be tied on the under portion of the garment, also leaving enough extra thread to give the garment whatever ease may be required between the folds of the material."
in reference to: http://www.vintagesewing.info/1910s/17-ad/ad-09.html (view on Google Sidewiki)
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